Scott's Olympus C5050Z Reference

Operating characteristics otherwise not well detailed in Olympus Camedia Digital Camera C-5050Zoom Reference Manual


2005.0412 PhotoTidbits "Olympus C5050Z and C5060WZ cameras compared" (http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/c5050/c5060-compar.html)

Olympus C-5050 Zoom Operating Mechanics

RAW file format

2004Sep Adobe proposes new RAW file format (http://www.adobe.com/products/dng/main.html)
Imaging Resource - digital photography newletter.  (http://www.imaging-resource.com/IRNEWS/)

Underwater Photography by Floor. ©2004

Flashing light alarms:
very slow red-green-red-green   -   low battery
rapid red                                     -   leak: moisture in housing
none of the above

Focus

If lighting is king, then Focus is QUEEN.

Focus is the most important thing after lighting. In this sense, even out-of-focus is focus. Usually though, sharp focus is desired. Always remember to sharply focus the subject's eyes.

With the Oly5050 you may either auto-focus or manual-focus.

Invoke auto-focus with a half press of the shutter button.

This idea of 'half-press' to 'focus' is not trivial. Once the shutter button is 'half-pressed', it "fixes" autofocus on the most contrasty element in the viewfinder field. If you had a dark colorful eye and also a neck collar with a checker board plad pattern, the camera would attempt to focus on the collar not the eye. So what you do to ensure focus on the eye is to 'half-press' the shutter button, then determine where focus actually is, and decrease or increase your distance to the 'eye' thereby bringing the eye into focus rather than the contrasty element that autofocus originally fixed upon. Tough to do with a small little 1.8" monitor screen and even tougher through the viewfinder. The photographer might also try simultaneously pressing the QuickView button after 'half-pressing' the shutter button; this inlays a box within the monitor screen which enlarges the focusing area (but you need 3 hands to effectly do everything you have to do).


Alcina, couple of things to consider on this type of shot if you can...it's sometimes tough U/W, I know.

Unless you use manual focus, the autofocus is likely to grab the nose of the Eel when shooting head on, leaving the eyes a little soft. Trick is to 1/2 press to set focus then move toward the eel until the eyes look sharp.

As for getting both the Eel and Shrimp eyes both sharp, think in terms of the distance from camera lens to eye. Try and position your lens so the distance to each critters' eyes is about the same. Tough sometimes but looking at this shot, which is fantastic as is, I think quite possible.

Rand


Rand is right, with one clarification... since autofocus works off of contrast, in this case, it's the white feelers of the shrimp that AF locked onto.

I think it's also this stark contrast that would prevent the eel eye from standing out, even if it were the sharpest thing in the photo. Just my .02

Tio


Flashing Light Alarms.  very slow red-green-red-green   -   low battery

Quoted from DigitalDiver.net

The Tetra ROC system and warnings (Olympus C5050, Tetra Housing w/ wetmate WAL, Sea & Sea YS90 strobes)
« on: January 27, 2005, 03:59:45 PM »
by  PattyG :

Last weekend, the light on my Tetra back was flashing a very slow red-green-red-green.  I thought  "huh.......it usually flashes faster than that when the lighting is off; battery must be running low".  I continued to use it throughout the dive, ignoring the new light array.

I forgot about it on the SI, and took it down for the second dive.  This time, whenever I engaged the ROC (when it should glow solid green), I got the slow red-green-red-green.  I hung at 70 feet, trying every button on the back to see if if I could disengage it.  Then it hit me.  "Oh S**t......it's the moisture sensor!".

On the boat, I rinsed it quickly and opened the back.  No moisture.  Phew.  I took it to Backscatter, and described the probelm to them.  David showed me what the moisture sensor looks like when activated; it's much more agressive than the slow blinking I was seeing (try it out on your housing with a wet finger to see what it looks like).  Turns out the battery WAS low (down to 2.88), and the red "low battery" warning was flashing OVER the green ROC light.  That was creating the slow red-green array.  I left the housing for service, happy it was nothing major.

Thought I'd share this story, in case anyone else runs into the problem.

Patty